Daytona Bike Week 2004

 

Prologue

 

Sometime in December I decided I was going to try and attend the Iron Butt Association annual dinner in Florida.  To that end in January, when it was announced, I sent in my 25 dollars for a ticket and received confirmation shortly thereafter.  Around this time Mike Daugherty from LA posted on one of the sabmag lists that he was going to ride to Daytona and had also talked Pete Springer into going.  Excellent!  I wrote with my plan for heading east and perhaps we could make a group attempt at a 50cc since Mike was interested in the certification.  Jimmy Bolin got wind of this and soon there were four for Florida.

 

I was going to be able to attend several group events.  There was also some discussion of riding out to Key West.  The FJR boyz were having lunch Thursday.  The Motorcycle Tourers Forum was hosting a lunch on Friday.  The annual Iron Butt dinner was Friday night.  SabMag Bike Week was scheduled for that weekend and I was going to attend it all.  Race day changed from its usual Sunday running to Saturday in case a rain day was necessary and the SabMag BBQ was now on Friday night.  Shit!

 

Eventually the plan boiled down to Jimmy riding to Stayton on Friday afternoon to spend Friday night at my place.  The two of us would leave here for LA early Saturday and altogether we would head east early Sunday morning.

 

Day One – Saturday, February 28, 2004

 

Jimmy showed at my place on schedule on Friday evening.  We were pretty jazzed to see each other again and almost left right then for California; we could get a room later on the road.  All I needed to do was gear up.  We cooled however and together decided it better to sleep and eat.  Some quick bike sniffing, some take out chicken and lights out for a planned early call at 3:00 am putting us on the road by 4:00 am.  We wanted to hit the Siskiyou pass in the daylight as there was some concern of snow and possible ice.

 

Saturday morning we hit it right on schedule.  I led Jimmy on local roads to catch I-5 at the north end of Albany where we settled into an easy 10 over.  Before too long Jimmy came sailing by as we picked up the pace a bit.  As we made time to southern Oregon Jimmy pulled off complaining that his bike was running rough and making no power.  This happened several times until Medford where I told Jimmy it must be the fuel filter.  Where do you find a fuel filter at 7:00 am on a Saturday morning?  We quickly checked a couple of decked out full service stations before spying a Freddie’s in a nearby mall.  Fred Meyer opens early and was open this particular morning.  We were certain a filter of some type could be found here.  We parked, tore open the ST to find the fuel filter, which was easily accessible, and removed it.  Blowing through it was nearly impossible and dirty brown sludge poured from one end.  We were sure we'd found the problem.

 

Minutes later Jimmy saunters out with a smile and a filter with a story about its purchase.  Turns out they did not have any kind of auto related filter so Jimmy asked about the lawn department where, sure enough, he found a filter.  Of course the filter was for a lawn mower.  Nevertheless it flowed way more fuel than the plugged filter we removed.  Once again we were on our way.

 

We cleared the Siskiyou pass with cold temps but clear road.  Next gas stop was Redding, CA where we decided to stop for breakfast at a Denny's adjacent to the gas station.  After scarfing we hit the road south.  With Jimmy leading progress was swift with only a small incident in Sacramento where Jimmy's heavily loaded bike got the front wheel light as we crossed a rise onto an overpass.  Jimmy quickly recovered but lost his open water bottle which a motorist noticed and then spent the next ten miles trying to tell us something fell off the bike.

 

About halfway to LA from Sacramento Jimmy pulled off onto the shoulder once again.  I thought perhaps the filter wasn't working so well after all.  Jimmy was out of gas just 11 miles from our next gas stop.  By his reckoning he should have plenty of gas but his reserve light (or equivalent on an ST) had been on for 20 miles or more.  Using Jimmy's small hose we siphoned four water bottles of gas from my cell and headed for gas.  At the gas station we discovered that Jimmy was unable to pull all the fuel from his cell or that it was not backfilling the tank quickly enough.  Jimmy also discovered that he did not have an expensive folding knife he'd used to fashion a plug for the siphon.

 

Jimmy decided to go back up the interstate, cross the median, and hunt for his knife.  I finished gassing up and headed out to the current exit to wait.  Before long Jimmy was back sans knife.  He'd found the whittled siphon plug but not his blade.  We hit the road southbound, next stop LA.

 

We crossed the mountains into LA at just about dusk.  Traffic was fierce but expected.  Neither of us had been to Mike's although we knew the exit and address.  Following my GPS we got right to where we needed to be and then blew the exit.  By now it was full dark.  Exiting quickly we stopped for Pig inflation and positioning and then followed the streetpilot as it routed us around on surface streets.  Soon enough down the street we came to find Pete and Mike walking down the sidewalk in front of Mike's building.  Mike opened the gate and we pulled in and parked to laugh about the pig and crack open Jimmy's Crown Royal.  Food, BS, and crash space followed.  Thanks Mike.

 

Day Two – Sunday, February 29, 2004

 

Sunday morning we woke early, around 4:00 am, and started out by heading west to Santa Monica.  Mike led us to a Chevron station in Santa Monica where we got our official starting receipts.  Later, I told Mike we should have gotten our witnesses first as now we were on the clock.  Freshly fueled including the auxiliary jugs carried by Mike and Pete we headed out to look for a starting witness.  Right around the corner Mike spotted a patrol car and we persuaded them to be our starting witnesses.  IBA formalities out of the way we ran a couple blocks to the I-10 freeway entrance and pointed the headlights eastward.

 

Traffic was light this early on a Sunday morning and we made brisk time with Mike leading the way out of the city.  The glare as the sun rose in front of us was harsh but soon we were climbing out of the valley and making our first gas stop.

 

Next stop was Buckeye, AZ where we took a bit more time to use the facilities and "snack up".  By this time Jimmy was in the lead and had been since shortly before our first stop.  With Jimmy at point we headed out again and wove our way through Phoenix and then Tucson.  In Tucson we got a continuous radar hit from in front of us and deduced a LEO going our direction.  Before long we spied him ahead and later spied him making an exit.

 

The east side of Tucson was our next gas stop where, once again, we spent some time to eat.  The boys bought burgers while I bought a sandwich and refilled my water jug with ice.  Temps were comfortable in the high 70s or low 80s with plenty of sunshine.  We were making good time.

 

We finished crossing Arizona and were making our way across New Mexico when Mike's bike caused some minor concern.  What ever had happened ironed itself out over a couple of quicker than usual stops along our way in NM.  As the day became late afternoon we crossed into Texas at El Paso.  In El Paso we dived off at one exit for gas only to find none.  Jumping back onto I-10 we went a few more exits and Mike dived off once again.  This time we missed Springer and had to use the cell phone to get in touch.  Jimmy had never gotten back on and came up on surface streets moments later.  After gassing up and rigging for colder, night time running in west Texas, we headed out again.

 

The next few hours were uneventful.  We ran into some construction for about 20 miles, but it was well marked, and we were herded off the highway for an immigration checkpoint, but nothing kept us from making time.  At one gas stop the pumps were not working for the boys although the one I hit worked right off the bat.  I took some time to re-aim my Hellas as I warned the boys about the deer population at night in the Texas hill country.  Prior to this trip I had also changed out my OEM bulbs for a pair of Phillips Vision Plus; I was ready for night time critters.  From my experience on the MTF 100ccc last year I knew we would see plenty, both live and flattened.

 

Traffic remained just heavy enough that effective use of my driving lights was prohibited.  As the junction of I20 toward Dallas passed to the rear traffic dropped off to nothing and I was able to use my brights and Hella FF200 driving lights to good effect.  At times we rode with one rider in each lane firing our brights down both sides of the interstate.

 

Topping one slight rise we were met with screaming radar detectors due mostly to our efforts to maintain Jimmy's brisk pace.  We continued on but noticed that one of our group, Jimmy and I thought it was Mike for a time, was stopped by the Texas state police.  Three of us motored on and it wasn't until we were about to stop again for gas that we noticed no lawn chair on the back of that sabre.  We realized then that it was Springer who was talking to John Law.

 

In Ozona we made an extended stop and waited for Pete to catch up which he soon did.  Jimmy bet Mike a drink that Pete would get away with a warning.  Sure enough Pete talked his way out with a warning and a promise to tell us to be more cautious.  As we assessed our situation it was easy to see that certain of us were tired.  Before even leaving for this trip we discussed the differences in ranges and the possibility of the four of us breaking up at some point due to any number of circumstances.  We touched on the subject briefly again and ultimately decided to rest at the first available rest area.  Jimmy paid heed and 30 or so miles farther down the road pulled off at a rest area.  Jimmy and Pete lay right down, Mike shortly himself.  I just walked around not quite ready or willing to rest.  I laid down once and got up and then lay down again and willed myself to relax.  The next thing I knew Pete and Jimmy were standing over me.  Mike was also up as we collected our wits and saddled up.  We still had an outside chance of making Houston before the Monday morning rush hour.

 

Immediately out of the gate I could tell Mike was not quite ready to ride as his headlight grew smaller and smaller and smaller in my mirrors.  The short sleep had left me cold and kinda groggy and I had to concentrate to get back to the level of attention I held before we stopped.  It was quite some time with my ‘lectrics cranked high before I warmed up too.  Jimmy was relentless and I had to choose between keeping Mike’s headlight in sight or Jimmy's tail light.  Fortunately Pete was also aware that Mike was lagging and he elected to hang back.  I stepped it up just a bit in an effort to rejoin Jimmy whose tail light was gone.  As predicted, the forest rats were out in force and stained the highway in many places.  I rode with all my lights blazing and my eyes constantly scanning the sides of the road.  It didn’t take much of that at all before I was wide awake.

 

As Jimmy and I neared San Antonio we came up on a car fairly quickly and the roof rack did a Christmas dance.  Dropping anchor we meandered many miles behind the car with the pretty lights before finally dropping into San Antonio.  As we did I missed the exit for the 1604 cutoff and bypass.  Since we had to get off to go back, we stopped for gas and a fresh Crispy Creme donut.  Returning to I-10 we backtracked to 1604 and got off continuing east.  At that time of the morning we probably could have made better time on I-10 we would learn from the boys later.

 

Somewhere east of San Antonio and west of Houston it began to rain and for a time came down fairly hard.  My old gear starting leaking in the sleeves and I began to get wet.  Up until this instant the weather had been ideal.  Not too hot, clear, with excellent visibility.  Even the evening was clear although temperatures dropped dramatically.

 

Leading Jimmy off an available exit I told him, at the end of the ramp, I was going to find cover and put on my real rain gear or I was gonna get a room.  The room won out and we headed off to the right in the wrong direction.  A couple miles later we turned around, came back, and crossed to the north side of freeway and found gas and a motel.  Not needing fuel we headed directly for the motel and checked in.  As we left the office, much to our surprise, there were Pete and Mike filling up at the station.  Jimmy walked quickly back in and got another room.

 

Day Three – Monday, March 1, 2004

 

By now it was early Monday morning with the new day dawning just as we hit the racks.  A few too short hours later and we packed up to head out for Houston.  Houston was fairly close by and it seems, as I recall, that we hit the heavy traffic just before the noon hour.  Jimmy again made short work of the jam ups leaving the rest of us to fend for ourselves in his wake. Before too long we were motating out the eastern side of Houston and settled down to our normal mileage eating pace.

 

Soon a Stuckey's appeared with excellent off and on access so Jimmy pulled up for gas and breakfast.  Since we had not stopped for real eats since Ozona, and that was really only a snack, we stepped inside and ordered up.  I was hungry and had their breakfast special, two eggs, toast, and a side of grits.  I also had their BBQ sandwich special with a coke, at the same time, for lunch.  Jimmy did some souvenir shopping and we futzed around with gear and fuel logs.  My receipt said this was Anahuac, TX.  It was at this point that I broke the hastily attached flashlight mount on my fuel cell and a small leak started.  With a full fuel cell the only way to stem the leak was on the center stand.

 

Refreshed and full of fuel, both human and bike, we continued our eastward journey.  Right away we lost Mike.  Running steady for the next 30 to 60 minutes did not put Mike into our mirrors.  Pete caught me and motioned that he was going to hang back again and wait for Mike.  Jimmy of course continued plowing ahead, slicing and dicing our eastbound company with alacrity.  That was the last we saw of Pete and Mike until we hit Jacksonville Beach.

 

East Texas came and went.  Louisiana was next under the tread and the Atchafalaya swamp with its raised causeway entertained Jimmy as he spent many miles on the pegs looking over the side as he was again while crossing the mighty Mississippi.  Soon the dark caught us as we stopped for another couple of tankfulls.  The little pieces of Mississippi and Alabama fell under wheel and finally we made Florida.  We stopped fairly soon after crossing the state line but after we made our way through Pensacola.  When we exited the freeway no station was to be seen.  We took off down the main road and finally found a Chevron closed and with the lights off.  Jimmy was on fumes so we weren't going any farther.  Fortunately it was pay at the pump and the pumps were on.  We kibitzed and made some calls before taking off again.  We figured we could make Jacksonville easily with one more stop.

 

Over the next few hours it became apparent that Jimmy's well known riding "style" was taking over.  At the same time it became clear that the local deer population was enormous.  I became uneasy at our after dark pace in dear country.  Every little while we would pass a few scrawny head with one or more cautiously eyeing the median.  Jimmy's tail light started to fade from view.  I would catch up through weigh stations or rest areas or wherever civilization encroached heavily and no deer were seen.  At times we employed our Texas trick of using both lanes on the deserted roadways to blaze our lights for maximum effectiveness.

 

Our last stop was after mid-night local time and we found a couple of iron butt types there gassing up on their last leg of an east-west-east 100ccc.  One was riding a BMW LT and the other a big Kawasaki v-twin.  We sniffed quickly but they were off as they were already gassed to go.  I spent the next ninety minutes trying to keep Jimmy in sight as he tried to catch our two fellow travelers.  Mileage to Jacksonville signs kept getting smaller and smaller until we junctioned with I-95 and headed south.  Jimmy let me catch him just before this because I knew where I wanted to be from the 100ccc last year.  Soon we passed the two 100cc riders at a closer exit.  I kept moving until we hit 202 east and headed for the Shell station at Jacksonville Beach.

 

We made it; 1:30 am pacific, 4:30 am local time!  We were well within our 50 hour goal.  Now where were Mike and Pete?  Jacksonville Beach was deserted and no sooner had I gotten my ending receipt, bought a soft drink, and a map of Florida than here comes the two riders we'd caught previously motoring in.  Since we were on separate rides I witnessed theirs and they filled out my witness form and everything was complete.  Now where were Pete and Mike?  The two other fellows left with the Kawasaki rider’s chain making so much noise Jimmy and I looked at each other and shook our heads.  I learned later that the guy’s chain was completely kinked, stretched, and missing rollers.  He sounded like amplified rice krispies riding down the street.

 

Day Four – Tuesday, March 2, 2004

 

It was now Tuesday morning the 2nd of March and we were tired.  Where were Pete and Mike?  Jimmy whipped out his phone and made a couple calls to Pete leaving voice mail.  In the meantime Jimmy dug out his Seal-All and we removed part of my busted flashlight mount and worked on fixing my fuel cell leak.  A few minutes later after removing some screws, a liberal application of Seal-All, and retightening to repair the leak, Jimmy’s phone rang and Pete was on the line and just a couple miles south of us.  Jimmy parlayed directions to the Shell station and they pulled in minutes later.  The four of us spent a few minutes trying to locate a police or fire station for Mike’s ending witness before we decided breakfast was more important.  Back to the all night diner spotted previously as we rode up and down A1A.  We went in, sat down and ordered, all the while in high spirits and tired at the same time.

 

After breakfast we parted company again as Jimmy and I headed for our room at the Days Inn off I-95 in St. Augustine.  Pete and Mike headed south to find their campground.  My reservation didn’t start until Wednesday so Jimmy and I asked to get into a room a day early.  After some strange looks and confusion we were given the okay but had to wait while the room was cleaned.  No problem as we rode over to the room and started to unpack a bit.  The parking lot was full of big v-twins, most sporting the HD logo, and trailers.  I’ve never seen so many trailers at one motel.  In no time at all the cleaning was done and we were in the room.  Jimmy put in ear plugs and was out as soon as the curtains were closed shutting out the bright Florida sunlight.  Same for me.

 

Later that afternoon we woke up, cleaned up, and headed toward Daytona to find Mike and Pete in their campground.  We figured we could hook up for a good dinner.  All we knew was that it was north of Ormond Beach on Rt. 1 and called the “Moonshine” campground.  We exited I-95 at the intersection of Rt. 1, the Ormond Beach exit, and found the moonshine campground just a mile west of I-95.  Pulling in we were accosted by the “guard” on duty who asked what we wanted.  We expressed our desire to find a couple of buds and were told we had to park and walk.  No problem.  Until we found the boys camp we were the only non-Harleys I saw.  Some guy made a crack about my riding gear and a tux but it was pretty lame so I just kept walking.  Mike and Pete were not in but their bikes we there.  Jimmy and I scratched our backsides for a minute, left a voice mail, and proceeded to gear back up and find a restaurant.

 

Now Daytona is a mecca this time of year for all kinds of bikes and riders but on this particular stretch of US Rt. 1 it was strictly Harleys as far as the eye could see.  The pavement practically vibrated from the exhaust rumble.  Jimmy and I pointed the bikes south on US 1 looking for a likely restaurant.  Every place was full to the brim with v-twins of every description and local constabulary was in evidence in force.  After cruising for a bit more we decided we’d better get farther away from Daytona to find an uncrowded establishment and reversed course to point in the direction of I-95.  Saddle Jacks hove into view and the parking lot, compared to everywhere else, still had some room.  We’d found our dinner spot.

 

While waiting for our orders, honkin’ steaks of course, with sweet iced tea and buffalo shrimp to start, we called home and filled folks in on our status.  Jimmy just had to go to Key West living in the PNW at almost the exact opposite point and I wanted to visit also to keep me from considering going there when it might count.  According to the Florida map we’d purchased earlier it appeared to be about 500 miles each way from our motel.  Our dinners arrived as we continued our planning.  We decided we could do the entire ride in a day if we didn’t dally and only stayed on the island for an hour or so, just long enough to take photos, buy some souvenirs, and eat lunch.  Dinner over, the ride back to the motel in the dark went by quickly.  Our plan was to be out the door and on the road as close to 3:00 am local time as possible.

 

Day Five – Wednesday, March 3, 2004

 

Wednesday morning we jumped out of bed ready to go.  The night before Jimmy had inflated the Pig to make the ride with us.  The weather was again clear and warm even at 3:00 am.  Off we went with me in the lead but, as usual, here came Jimmy to stretch the rubber band just a little tighter.  We were making good time when, just north of Palm Beach, my bike ran quickly out of gas.  I got Jimmy’s attention and we exited quickly and pulled over.  A quick check showed my main tank empty but the fuel cell full.  My FJR was heating up the main tank and pressurizing it forcing fuel into the fuel cell.  A big whoosh as I opened the main gas tank was proof positive as fuel started to flow out of the auxiliary with pressure relieved.  From that point forward I opened the cell early to prevent the tank from heating up and to keep gas flowing in the right direction.

 

We took off again and headed south on I-95 to Miami.  Traffic had increased considerably and was in fact quite heavy.  The stop and go traffic began to increase our operating temps.  We decided to angle for the Florida’s Turnpike in hopes of getting away from the congestion.  Following the GPS for directions and after refueling we headed south once again, this time on the toll road with a bit less traffic.  Jimmy, always in the lead, began paying all the tolls to make our way a little more quickly.  At one toll he pulled into the exact change lane by mistake and I had to laugh as he tossed in a couple dollar bills.  A couple of minutes with an attendant checking why the line behind us was growing rapidly and horns were honking and we were on our way.  It was then I discovered that Jimmy did not always read the road signs.

 

Later on Jimmy missed a sign and a turn that would have kept us on the turnpike headed for the Keys even though I was hanging way back trying to get his attention.  Bummer, we were back on I-95 right in downtown Miami at rush hour.  It did not take long before we both had had enough of that.  Getting off at an available exit we followed my GPS on surface streets back to Florida’s Turnpike where we stayed until its end on US1 south, the old Dixie Highway.

 

Up until now we had to concentrate on riding while forgoing the sight seeing.  Once we hit Rt. 1 the speeds were reduced to 55 and lower to 45 through populated areas.  The day was bright and breezy.  Temps had not warmed up too much and we were enjoying the ride.  The number of folks headed south was considerable but we just hung in and plugged along.  Several times we attempted pictures while underway.  The scenery was amazing and the water is as blue as the postcards lead you to believe.  Even here 300 miles from Daytona HDs were everywhere.

 

Right on schedule we made Key West between noon and 1:00 pm local time.  We quickly wound our way to the southern most point marker and took the obligatory photos.  We scouted for souvenirs and both bought several to take back with us.  I really enjoyed our short visit and looking at the architecture of some of the older homes.  One couple walking by saw us looking at chickens near where we parked and told us there was a chicken problem on Key West and a $10 bounty on each.  After a couple of half-hearted attempts by Jimmy to snag a fowl we left to look for a lunch stop.

 

After a quick lunch we retraced our steps northward.  Right off we came to an accident involving a motorcycle as they were loading someone onto an ambulance.  Back on the mainland we passed another accident as a road crew was picking up mixed pieces of cage and bike.

 

This time we got on the turnpike and stayed there.  In fact, too long!  At the last possible place where we could exit the turnpike to catch I-95 north I once again could not get Jimmy’s attention to exit.  Sometime earlier a good looking woman driving a Chevy Blazer went by us with malice.  Jimmy hooked on like he was umbilically connected.  In hind sight I probably should have just exited.  At that point I was hot, tired, and hungry and just a little peeved not yet realizing that the next possible exit was 60 miles up the road.  When that dawned on me I was just pissed!  I sped up and came along side and gave him the universal “you effed up” sign.  At a service plaza Jimmy pulled off for gas and I pulled up next to him and proceeded to rip him a new one.  Again, in hindsight, that was probably a pretty funny spectacle as I was hot and Jimmy was looking all shocked and contrite.  I cooled off rapidly after blowing off my little bit of steam.  No big deal, we’d head back via Orlando to I4 and back to I-95.

 

Northbound again we hit the last toll booth and I slipped through a lane with absolutely no traffic and was on the road before Jimmy was even up to the toll window in his lane.  That was the last I saw of him for quite a while.  Every moment I expected to see the ST’s headlight in my mirrors, but not so.  Just about the time I was getting ready to exit to I4 and Orlando Jimmy’s headlight appeared and then was gone.  No biggie, Jimmy’s a big boy and knows where we are staying.  I cruised on back arriving at the motel around 10:00 pm.

 

Jimmy rode in about an hour later after making a quick stop for souvenirs and a side trip to Cape Canaveral.  Since we hadn’t eaten Jimmy took off for take out and came back a few minutes later with chicken fried steak from Denny’s

 

Day Six – Thursday, March 4, 2004

 

Thursday was another in a string of beautiful days.  Jimmy had an interest in FJRs as he said his ST1100 had no soul so he was coming with me to the FJR lunch at the Down the Hatch restaurant on Ponce Inlet south of Daytona.  We got up relatively late and decided to take the scenic route south and ride A1A all the way to Ponce Inlet stopping at the local Radio Shack to check on some connectors Jimmy needed for his cell phone to autocomm hookup.   I was also looking for a spare helmet speaker extension.  For once Jimmy let me lead the entire ride.  Harley traffic was heavy and speeds matched those in the keys on Wednesday.  It took us at least 40 minutes to ride from north Daytona Beach to south Daytona Beach, but otherwise we made pretty good time.

 

Once in Ponce Inlet the restaurant was fairly easy to find and when we arrived at close to noon there were already a couple dozen FJRs parked out front.  Jimmy and I parked the ST and FJR respectively and introduced ourselves to several of the other FJR owners already there.  Soon hunger overtook some of us and we headed in to eat.  The food was good and the company congenial until we were back outside for more bike sniffing.  There were several very nice FJRs in attendance but none were set up for LD riding.  At least there were no fuel cells or hydration systems or extra lighting in evidence.  Not very many radar detectors were seen either.  Several bikes sported aftermarket exhaust but I still think my Holeshots are the most quiet and mellow sounding.

 

We stayed at the restaurant for a good 3-4 hours before leaving.  There was an outside bar component and live music but we didn’t hang around leaving instead for a run up to Palm Coast to scout out the site of the IBA dinner the next night.

 

On our way back to the motel from Palm Coast we decided to explore a bit.  My GPS said there was a northbound surface street route to US1 so we went looking for it.  We found it all right, a road under construction and covered with Florida sand.  Jimmy said he’d go for it so after looking it over several times we took off on it.  Right away I came as close to crashing as I have in some time.  The hard packed sand gave way to soft sand about half a foot deep.  My front end washed and pushed almost immediately as a tank slapper started and I prepared to go down.  Miraculously I saved it!  I really don’t know how but probably by riding through to shallower sand.   Jimmy, too, was having difficulties with the big ST but we pushed through only to encounter a severe washboard surface, what locals around here call “stutter bumps”.  Three and a half miles later we hit US 1 and hard pavement.  As I stopped and Jimmy pulled up I asked him, only half jokingly, if anything had fallen off.  I had sand in my teeth, in my helmet, and everywhere it could land.  Jimmy’s radar detector’s audio had quit and we were hoping it was just wiring but it turned out to be the detector itself.

 

By the time we returned to the motel Rick Martin, another FJR rider, had pulled in from Illinois.  Rick and I together had ridden the entire 4 loops of the Blister event last year.  Rick and I were also going to the MTF lunch and IBA dinner the next day, Friday.  I made introductions and Rick went out and brought back a half rack which we cooled in the room’s trash can full of ice.  Jimmy cracked his Crown Royal and we sat down to shoot the shit and relax.  Rick is a mechanic and he and Jimmy had plenty in common and seemed to hit it off real well.

 

Day Seven – Friday, March 5, 2004

 

Friday was another really glorious Florida weather day.  Jimmy split almost bright and early for Pete and Mikes camp after Pete’s “you’re late” phone call jarred him into action.  They were headed to Norm’s for the SabMag bike week barbecue.  Jimmy said they would and I knew they would talk about me.  It was not my original intention to miss the barbecue but I’d paid good money for the IBA dinner ticket.

 

In the meantime the last piece of my flashlight mount had broken off and I had another leak.  Rick needed to go to the Radio Shack and since Jimmy and I had already been there we went together.  At the same time I was scouting for washers and Seal-All to fix my new leak.  Two hardware stores, two Radio Shacks, and one marine store later we had everything we needed and returned to the motel.  I made quick work of my small leak and we prepared to find the King’s Head an old English pub where the MTF lunch bunch was to gather.

 

Rick and I found the pub easily as it was in St. Augustine but slightly north on US 1.  Bikes and riders gathered quickly at the pub which was very authentic in its execution and accommodations.  Old acquaintances were renewed and many pictures were taken before we went inside for lunch.  Inside, the pub was just as authentic as outside.  True to the realistic nature of the pub most everyone had the fish or shrimp and chips and it was quite good.

 

Returning to the motel after lunch we tried to nap a little before gearing up for Palm Coast and the IBA annual dinner.  Rick was still recovering from his ride in the day before and I could use the down time to relax and unwind.

 

Before long it was time ride south to Palm Coast as I geared up and ran down to Rick’s room where he appeared in the doorway putting on the last of his gear.  Rick fired up his FJR and we headed for the highway.

 

At the Knights of Columbus Hall we had to check into the secured parking lot by name.  There were already hundreds of bikes in the lot and large groups of people talking and walking around looking at motorcycles.  A short line at the door had formed as people picked up their pre-printed name tags or made their own if they were guests of an IBA member.  I ran into Roger and Karen Van Santen on my way to the door.  Roger is a local dentist here in Stayton, and experienced long distance rider, and owner of an FJR.  He has taught me quite a bit about riding distance in a safe, sane, and fun manner.  Tom Melchild had also ridden in from California on his FJR.  Leonard Roy, a wing rider, was also seen sporting an FJR although he claimed it was not going to be a rally bike.  Inside, the bar was quite full and there was a looped video trailer running of the 2003 IBR.  Yours truly could be seen with Dale “Warchild” Wilson at the start handing out numbers to riders as they left.

 

The hall was large and filled with tables and chairs.  The line at the buffet table moved slowly but it wasn’t too long before everyone was seated.  Rick and I sat with Roger and Karen Van Santen.  Roger was also a participant and finisher in Blister. Bob Higdon soon took the podium to introduce Mike Kneebone.  Keep in mind that the IBA in tone is a serious but very lighthearted organization.  Both Bob’s and Mike’s remarks were quite humorous and those present laughed as if on cue.  One highlight was the presentation of a GPS to the newest member in attendance with the caveat that when it was upgraded it would be returned to award at a future dinner to the newest member present.  The presenter was the previous user who had upgraded.  Neat idea! 

 

One of the “awards” that night was a plaque to the person who’d ridden the farthest to attend this dinner.  I thought I was a sure winner as I didn’t see any Washington residents except for former IBR winner Rick Morrison and I didn’t think he’d ridden in as he has a bike stashed more locally.  Roger and Karen had also flown in.  Turns out a couple had ridden extensively in Central America before turning right in Texas for Florida.  Later in the evening Roger was kind enough to introduce me to Rick who, under the circumstances I am sure, forgot me minutes later.

 

Toward ten o’clock things began to break up.  In my efforts to be drawn for the 2005 Iron Butt Rally I made sure to speak with Lisa Landry before leaving to remind her that her entry confirmation email to me bounced.  I asked that she send me another to be sure I could receive her mail.  I also talked with Mike Kneebone for a couple of minutes and said goodbye and thanks.  I would really like to ride in the big rally but question my own ability at the same time.

 

I considered running over to Norm’s but figured I was at least an hour away.  Now, generally speaking, some splinter group at any sabmag event will be up ‘til all hours.  With Jimmy sporting his CR but not knowing who else would be there I couldn’t guarantee I wouldn’t be rousting folks.  So I rode back to the Days Inn with Rick Martin.

 

Back in the room Rick and I finished off the rest of the beer and hashed out activities for Saturday.  Rick was interested in riding with me to meet up with maggots at the races.  He also was interested in hitting the road as he had to work Monday and didn’t want to have to unwind from a long Sunday ride.  Rick lives in Illinois so he had close to 1100 miles to cover.  We said our good-byes before the night was over to cover all the bases.

 

Day Eight – Saturday, March 6, 2004

 

I don’t know how the weather could have been any better as Saturday was another warm and sunny offering.  According to others on the scene Rick had waffled about leaving but in the end had made for home.

 

Jimmy called mid-morning to say maggots were meeting in the Honda tent at the Daytona show prior to heading for the track.  I asked who had been at Norm’s on Friday and Jimmy ran down a partial list.  I was hoping most would head for Daytona.  He also said they were headed to Titusville for a quick airboat ride and alligator observation before heading to Daytona.  I figured I had lots of time and geared up for a slow ride to Daytona.

 

Hitting I-95 south it became immediately apparent that everyone else was also driving to Daytona.  All southbound lanes were jammed and stop and go in places.  I ran up on several accidents involving bikes and not all were of the v-twin variety.  One group of sporties was on the inside shoulder with a cage displaying a large dent in the rear bumper.  I’d wondered if the bike rider had landed on the roof or sailed clear over it.  No ambulance or emergency workers were visible.  The off-ramp at the Daytona exit was backed up quite a ways down I-95 also.  Being on two wheels I made several shortcuts around the backups as were most other riders.

 

Out onto Speedway Blvd. the congestion was no better.  All traffic was headed for the track.  I proceeded as best I could until I was able to pull off and park.  Doffing my gear and locking stuff down and onto the FJR I headed into the show.  As it happened I had parked a goodly distance from the Honda tent.  After walking what felt like two miles the Honda tent finally hove into view.  Why the freak did I park so far away, I asked myself.

 

I spent time looking at the bikes and was especially interested in the WCC edition of the VTX powered red custom.  The Honda dude staffing the exhibit said he’d ridden it slowly, that it was loud, and actually quite fragile.  He also said people were expressing a good deal of interest in it but that should Honda produce something similar they would be disappointed in the differences between a production model and a $200,000 custom. 

 

Eventually the noon hour approached and Physics Dan appeared with his girlfriend, whose name I neglected to get although she seemed familiar, and introduced himself.  Shortly I spied Tom Blum and we reacquainted and then Jimmy, Pete, and Mike showed up.  We waited and waited for more but no one else met us there.  While we waited the boyz test sat the pretty blue ST1300 and amazingly Jimmy and Pete were color coordinated.  Looked real spiffy boys.

 

As it was race day we headed for the track.  Before heading up to the grandstand to park it under the overhang and stay in the shade we made for the concession stand.  For me it was again a breakfast/lunch deal.  I had a hot dog for breakfast and a burger with Gatorade for lunch, of course at the same time.  We watched the Boxer Cup, won by an American and waited for the main event, the Daytona 200.

 

Pete’s friends from Ohio also arrived after many phone calls and hand waving.  I was hoping Norm and a few others including Kent Matthews, who also owns an FJR, would show, but we never did connect.  The 200 mile race went off without a hitch with a field heavily leaning to the Suzuki GSX1000.  Many riders did not make the cut due to an extremely fast qualifying.  The field that was left offered some exciting racing.  Suzuki rider Mat Mladin took first followed by Honda riders Jake Zemke and my favorite, Miguel Duhamel in third by a hair.  I took several, no many pictures, that were blank as the riders flew by at amazing speeds.

 

The races over we all parted and headed out, me to walk the two miles back to my FJR.  By now it was damn hot!  Traffic was just as bad headed out at the race conclusion but I made short work of it and hit northbound I-95, where the breeze cooled me down some, for the short ride back to St. Augustine.  As I pulled off the freeway it was beginning to get dark.

 

Back at the motel I began packing and performed minor maintenance to head out in the morning for home.   In the parking lot I ran into Verne Hauck who introduced me to his wife.  Last year Verne rode a Harley over 100,000 miles and I met him while we both worked in Missoula at the IBR.   Verne signed a witness form for me in the event that I could document another IBA ride on the way home.  I thought I might get in two or three 1000 mile days.

 

After a bit I took off to get some take out KFC.  When I returned Jimmy was back after making another souvenir run to downtown Daytona.  We ate and chatted about the day’s events and the whole trip in general agreeing that it had been a fun time and was well worth the effort.  We made plans to head out early in the morning so we finished eating, cleaned up, finished packing, and lay down for some shut-eye.  Jimmy was going to head north on I-75 to Atlanta, then Nashville, on to St. Louis to eventually wind up in Tecumseh, Nebraska at this folks house.  There he was going to load his bike in a pickup and tow the pickup to Forks with his Dad’s motor home.

 

Day Nine – Sunday, March 7, 2004

 

Jimmy and I got up before daylight to mist and slight drizzle, kind of like extreme humidity hanging in the air although the air temperature was cool.  I rode down SR16 to get gas; I only needed a little for the receipt as I had filled up last night.  Jimmy also filled up.  We proceeded north on I-95 to take the I-295 cut-off to I-10.  Almost immediately the drizzle stopped but as soon as we joined I-10 westbound we were in foggy conditions.  Its only about 60 miles from the junction of I-295 and I-10 to the junction of I-10 and I-75 so Jimmy and I were honking and waving inside an hour as he headed north toward Atlanta and I continued west.

 

The fog was heavy in spots allowing only the use of my low beams and requiring more cautious speeds.  It only began to lift after it had been daylight for some time.  The ever present traffic was really quite light for a Sunday morning and I made good progress in spite of the fog. 

 

I knew I needed to make big miles today so I didn’t waste much time at gas stops and took long pulls from my freshly iced jug to slake my thirst and stay hydrated instead of taking the time to buy something.  My first stop in Chipley, FL was no exception.  At every other stop I did try and munch something, usually a pre-packaged sandwich of turkey or ham.  I would take both halves and throw away the bread from one half, stack the remaining three pieces including the meat, and eat half a triple-decker.  On these occasions I also bought a V8 to wash it all down with.

 

In Alabama there was a collision and the westbound interstate was closed requiring a 15 mile detour on US90 before rejoining I-10 west of the accident.  This was actually kinda fun but I still needed to make this a big mileage day.

 

After Alabama Mississippi came and went, Louisiana, somewhat broader, took just a little longer.  I remember stopping for gas somewhere near Slidell, doing my sandwich and V8 routine, phoning home as it was now late enough Pacific Time not to wake Linda up, and then forging ahead.  I wondered if Mike and Pete had taken off or were hanging around for the nude biker girl protest.  I could have called but did not.

 

Gas in Orange, TX, a quick stop, real soon after passing the “El Paso 867 miles” sign, and then on through the traffic of Houston to San Antonia.  It’s amazing how many miles you can make staying on the bike and riding tank to tank, in my case 6.6 gallons in the main tank and a usable 4 gallons in the fuel cell.  I usually made somewhere between 250 and 350 miles between stops with fuel to spare.  Just northwest of San Antonio I stopped again at one of those super stations with gas, food, and a convenience store.  I grabbed a Big Mac and a soda and checked my phone for messages.  Sure enough the phone said Jimmy Bolin.  I called and Jimmy exclaimed in his message that he was in St. Louis and continuing on.  I called his phone and left a message saying I was in San Antonio and also continuing a ways before I called it a night.  I also called home and let Linda know where I was.

 

By now it was dusk and getting darker.  I got ready to run into the night in dear country and took off.  I ran off a hundred miles or so and started to feel like I would be tired soon.  Another hundred miles ticked off and the first exit to Ozona was signed up ahead.  So was a well lit Super 8 sign and I decided to head for the barn and call it a night.  I checked in quickly, and out, to save time in the morning and tried Jimmy again.   Oddly, his phone rang a few times and then went busy.  I’d never had that happen with a cell phone; either the party answers or you get shunted to voice mail.  I phoned home again and told Linda I was done for the night but planned to hit it again early Monday morning and that I had heard from Jimmy and he was well on his way.  Right at 1300 miles for the day, just over half way to LA.  I had watched the sun come up in my mirrors and watched it go down ahead of me.

 

Day Ten – Monday, March 8, 2004

 

I was able to park the bike right outside the door on Sunday night and only unpacked what I needed to clean up and change.  Monday I was up fairly early, 5:00 am local time.  I just threw everything back in and on the motorcycle and took off into the dark.

 

I had purposefully not stopped for gas here although I might have saved some time.  It gave me a chance to stop fairly quickly to fill up and munch down some breakfast.  Again, at my first stop, Stockton, TX, I ate my standard fare but since this was breakfast and barely 7:00 am I exchanged my usual V8 for chocolate milk.  It was cold!  Even with the sun up, it was cold.  My Gerbing jacket had been close to the max since leaving and now off the bike it was really cold.

 

As I left I thought about how freakin’ long Texas is as this was my fourth trip end to end in less than a year.  I remembered the sign on entering Texas from the east, El Paso 867 miles.

 

Traffic continued to be light this early Monday morning, no major metropolises or even medium sized cities nearby.  Finally I made it to El Paso and ran into some bit of traffic through town and away toward Las Cruces.  Las Cruces, NM was a quick gas stop and I was on my way again.  In Las Cruces I shucked my electrics down to my single long sleeved button down shirt and riding gear.

 

I made quick work of the long straight stretches in New Mexico and crossed the state line into Arizona.  The cold of the early morning had made way for the heating of the day.  Just on the outskirts of Tucson I stopped for gas at the same place the four of us had stopped just over a week ago.  It had grown quite hot so I made time to refresh the ice in my jug and eat a sandwich without moving my FJR from the pump.  Adjustments to gear to open vents and allow more airflow were completed before I jumped back onto I-10 to make my way through the city.  Tucson down, Phoenix to go.  I momentarily thought about bypassing Tucson through Gila Bend but was in a good flow of traffic so motored on toward Phoenix on the interstate.

 

Phoenix was awful, hot, congested, and somewhat slow for a mid-afternoon.  I was second guessing my decision to ride through Phoenix.  Soon enough I was through it all and headed further west toward LA.  Another gas stop was in order and considering the heat, refilled my jug with ice, and made this a longer stop.   Two in a row, oh my!  I was in Tonopah, AZ.

 

Leaving the Chevron station in Tonopah I got in with a section of fast moving cars.  Each was taking turns leading the pack and passing most of the other cages.  I moved with them but hung mostly in the right lane, passing slower traffic when able, while they all camped out in the left lane.  The miles to LA went quickly.  Did I mention it was hot?  By now my shirt was soaked and the air envelope I was in wasn’t doing much to cool me or dry me.  I lowered my screen as far as possible and it helped, but I was still hot.  Several times I stood on my pegs to stretch and pull clammy clothes away from my skin and just enjoy the air flow.

 

Together this band of cars and I cleared the mountains and headed down into the valley to Palm Springs.  Did I mention it was hot?  It got hotter.  It had been 91 through Phoenix but it felt hotter here.

 

I have decided that LA actually starts in Palm Springs.  It was just past the rush hour but I couldn’t tell.  I-10 had turned into a sea of lanes all with occupants.  I tried my best to stay safe and make time, kinda of like an oxymoron to say the least.  As I crept closer to the core I knew I would have to stop for gas and a likely prospect, with relatively easy access, came into sight in Ontario.  I was already in the right lane as I had been looking for gas for several minutes.

 

I called home here, it was my first call of the day, and I took some flak.  My phone had showed two messages and one hang-up.  Linda was peeved that she had not heard from me all day.

 

I have a habit, it would seem, of stopping in the last of the daylight to leave in the dark.  It happened here too.  I’d told Linda on the phone that I would probably ride until I was out of the city and over the grapevine headed north on I-5.  To that end I hopped onto I-210 and stayed there until the junction with I-5 north before climbing the grade and descending into the valley on the other side.  A few miles farther on Buttonwillow had another Super 8.  Having had good luck with the motel in Ozona, by far the best room at any price of the entire trip, I thought to try another.  I stopped, got a room, of course this was a dump, and went to find some grub.  Subway was close by but closed.  That left Mickey D’s again, but oh well, I like Big Macs.  Real close to another 1300 miles for the day.  I was only 800 miles from home.

 

Day Eleven – Tuesday, March 9, 2004

 

As on both the previous days I was up before dawn and on the road.  Like yesterday I did not fill up here but went on down the road before stopping for gas in Los Banos.  If you’ve driven or ridden I-5 you’ve seen it.  It’s the only thing at the exit, a big shiny Shell station perched on a hill on the west side of I-5 overlooking the San Joaquin valley.

 

Freshly fueled I trekked north once again.  As the sun came up I noticed I had this great shadow with abnormal detail on my left so I decided to try and fish out my camera for a shot.  After several aborted attempts tangling with my camera and traffic I got a clear enough spot to snap off a couple of quick ones.   Couldn’t really focus so I didn’t think they’d be worth much.

 

Stockton and Sacramento have both grown.  I had not been through either one at anything close to a rush hour, but this morning there I was.  Stop and go, stop and go, was the routine until we got downtown and the through traffic continued north.

 

I’d heard on the news at the motel last night that CHP would be out in force to slow down speeders.  They were not joking!  North of Sacramento every bridge abutment was hiding a patrol officer with his radar blazing.  My V1 paid for itself in just this one section of the whole trip.   It’s really kind of amusing to see the normally speedy California interstate traffic moseying along at near 70.  I was hoping to make Redding but chickened out 10 miles south at Cottonwoods.  Gassing up here I also took my breakfast and jug refresh break.

 

On the road again I was itching to get home and I was tired of interstate traveling.  Fortunately, north of Redding, I-5 gets more interesting with elevation changes and high speed sweepers and some spectacular scenery, at least for an interstate.  Mt. Shasta, northward to the Oregon border, the Siskiyou summit, all were passed and became history.  Once in Oregon the LEO presence was reduced considerably.  I did not see a single OSP and only had a minor K band hit.  I made better time in Oregon than I had in California.  At one point I caught a biker sporting an IBA license plate frame.  I waved and gave the thumbs up but this close to home was in no mood for stopping.  One hour from home, in Eugene, I stopped for my last gas.  As I needed to do some fuel cell work after I got home I only filled the main tank.

 

Once again I’d made no calls home.  I knew Linda expected me later in the day but I did not expect to clean up Oregon so easily either.  I made the last few miles and pulled into the driveway at 3:50 in the afternoon.

 

Epilogue

 

While I was riding my way home my friend, fellow rider, and sabmaggot, Jimmy Bolin was also headed toward his home in Forks, Washington via his parent’s home in Tecumseh, Nebraska.  Jimmy and I had spent a good part of the previous week together as noted in my trip report.

 

Unknown to me at the time, Jimmy was involved in a chain reaction collision at around 10:00 pm central time on Sunday evening just west of the I-435/I-70 interchange in Kansas City, Kansas.  From reports it appears that a woman driving a pickup westbound swerved to avoid another vehicle that cut her off and in doing so hit the Jersey barrier and rolled her truck pushing the barrier into oncoming traffic and causing additional accidents although no one was seriously injured.  Jimmy crashed into the bed of the pickup and was killed instantly.

 

After I arrived home Tuesday evening I spent time with my wife unwinding and with my son who came over anxious to enlist my help to work on his V65 Honda Magna which he acquired before I left on this adventure.  I did not learn of Jimmy’s tragic death until Wednesday morning when, still somewhat on Eastern Time, I got up early and started catching up on email and sabmag list traffic, among others.

 

I was shocked, dismayed, saddened, tearful, and without words for some time after learning of the news.  I offer my sincerest and deepest condolences to Jimmy’s family and friends.  The world has lost a good hearted soul and I mourn his passing.

 

This trip report is dedicated to Jimmy Bolin’s memory.

 

 

dougc Tuesday, March 16, 2004

 


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